Kakamega

Ikhongo Murwe. The name is both lyrical and powerful.

Ikhongo Murwe is the Crying Stone found high on a ridge in Ilesi, and its story brings us to County 037, Kakamega. The 8-metre high monolithic boulder with the curious stone that sits like a small head atop, is revered by the people of Kakamega. There’s a fable that tells us when the stone cries the people will enjoy bountiful harvests, but when it dries, drought and hardship is likely to follow. While geologists may have a different view on why the towering giant pillar weeps, we much prefer this version, don’t you? Ikhongo Murwe is a short detour off the A1 and is a popular site for tourists as they visit the bountiful county that is Kakamega.

Head east after viewing the giant rock and one will find the jewel of the county – the Kakamega National Forest, the last remaining stand of a vast tropical rainforest that once stretched from modern day Kenya to the DRC. For the intrepid there are campsites in the forests, while for the less adventurous, traditional dwellings provide a suitable throwback in time for overnight stays. While there you will have to take a hike to check out the Isiukhu Falls and after a night listening to the myriad sounds of the birds of the rainforest, wake up early to witness the sun rise over Buyangu Hill. The forest is managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service and for Ksh 350, forest adventure awaits!

You may want to time your visit to County 037 to coincide with a local bullfight, yes Kakamega is well known for this practice where the bulls are supported by fans vigorously drumming as they do the famous isikuti dance. People gather early on the prescribed day of the fight to watch the spectacle and rumour has it the bulls enjoy some busaa the night before to prep them – kweli au uwongo? Watu wa county 037 watatuambia!

Did you know Kakamega’s premier institute of learning, the Masinde Muliro University of Science and Technology, was first established in 1972? Back then it was known as the Western College of Arts and Applied Sciences and its focus was to ensure that Kenya had a discerning crop of technical expertise. Five years later it received its first batch of students from across the country, and is now known to be an institution of note in the applied sciences. From there it became a constituent college of Moi University and was finally awarded its own university charter in 2007? Kakamega has been a hotbed of scientific activity for decades! Pop by the Nabongo Cultural Centre for your dose of history. The centre showcases the culture of the Wanga Kingdom – the only kingdom in Kenya. Green, culturally rich Kakamega, wonderfully distant from the capital, is a must-see!